Get ready for a culinary journey through Portland's Italian Renaissance, a movement that's taking the city by storm!
In a world where Italian cuisine is a beloved staple, especially in places like New York and New Jersey, Bolognese stands out as a dish with a personal touch. It's a signature offering, a benchmark for serious Italian food enthusiasts. But here's where it gets controversial: this humble meat sauce varies wildly, allowing restaurants to showcase their unique culinary approach.
Portland is currently experiencing its very own Italian food revolution, and it's an exciting time! Whether it's a trend towards nostalgic comfort food or a response to economic challenges, the city's chefs are creating something special. They might claim it's just a coincidence, but there's no denying that something magical is happening in Portland's pasta water.
So, let's dive into five restaurants that are putting their own twist on Bolognese, each with a unique story to tell. From old-school classics to vegan options, these dishes are a labor of love, and what better time to celebrate them than just before Valentine's Day?
Monty's Red Sauce:
This cozy yet high-ceilinged restaurant embraces the Americanized red-sauce Italian style. In addition to their famous meatballs and tiramisu, Monty's offers two Bolognese dishes. I recommend the one served on top of heavenly gnocchi or the cheesy baked ravioli. Developed by co-owner and chef Sedona McCaffrey-Allen, this Bolognese leans more towards a thick and savory ragù, with the sauce taking center stage. It's a comforting dish, perfect for those who want a taste of meat sauce without going overboard. Could Monty's take a page from Jersey's book and offer complimentary crusty bread for dipping?
Maglia Rosa:
Here, we explore the roots of Bolognese in Bologna, Italy. Chef Troy MacLarty's sauce is a masterpiece of simplicity and high-quality ingredients. He uses a delicate blend of tomato, ground pancetta, pork, beef, and sofrito, cooking it down to perfection. The result is a harmonious dish, where each ingredient shines. It's like a catchy song that lingers in your mind long after you've finished eating.
Lilla:
Lilla is a plant-based Italian gem in Buckman, and it's a testament to the magic that chef and owner Pasquale Liotti creates. Despite the Italian obsession with meat and dairy, Liotti's fresh takes on classic and regional dishes are a delight. His Bolognese, served with orecchiette pasta for lunch and pappardelle noodles for dinner, is a surprising treat. Even without the fatty richness of meat-based sauces, it's hearty and satisfying. Liotti uses textured vegetable protein to replicate the meaty texture, and the result is impressive. Lilla is the perfect spot to bring together vegans and meat lovers alike.
Sunday Sauce:
Inspired by co-owner Amanda Winquist's family gatherings, Sunday Sauce is a tribute to long-standing traditions. Winquist believes the key is using meat with bones, and her sauce is built around short ribs and spare ribs. It's tangy, flavorful, and sticks to the al dente rigatoni perfectly. The portion might be lighter than what you'd find in New Jersey, but the tender beef and variety of meats make for a rich and satisfying dish. It's like a warm hug from your favorite Italian auntie.
Bocci's Peace and Pasta:
This old-school joint is a fun-loving take on East Coast Italian cuisine. With its funky décor, energetic music, and smiling servers, Bocci's has been a quirky and welcoming spot for almost two decades. Their Bolognese is a classic American Italian dish, made with a perfect blend of beef and pork, white wine, and chicken stock. It's a mountain of spaghetti and meat sauce, a comforting and satisfying meal that could last you a couple of days.
As we explore Portland's Italian Renaissance, it's clear that these restaurants are more than just places to eat. They're a celebration of culture, a showcase of culinary talent, and a reminder of the comfort and joy that food can bring. So, which of these Bolognese dishes will you be trying first? And what do you think is the secret ingredient in Portland's pasta water? Let's discuss in the comments!
